Article With J.Crew's Menswear Designer Muytjens

Our guy wants to look good, but he doesn't want to feel self-conscious
By Michael Slenske
October 28, 2008
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Last week J.Crew menswear honcho Todd Snyder announced he was leaving his post to launch his own collection. Expect a smooth transition: His replacement is the brand's senior menswear designer, Frank Muytjens, who has been at the company for four years, and earned his chops at Ralph Lauren, where he started out at RRL and went on to oversee outerwear for Blue Label. We spoke to the Dutch-born 48-year-old to get his take on J.Crew's new direction, its upcoming menswear stores, and whether the financial meltdown will alter his (ahem) designs for the brand.

Now that you've been in the big seat for all of a week, where do you see the menswear collection going?
I think that what we did with the Liquor Store brought us a lot of opportunities to experiment with an elevated product. But it's more about evolving rather than just changing. Men need little steps.

Meaning what?
I don't think guys appreciate or want change. They're set in their ways. The trick is to give them something new without it looking too overly designed. To me it's about fit, color, fabrication, and functional details. It's also about proportions: The perfect collar and lapel on a sport coat, the perfect width of a tie, even the size of a button can make a difference.

How do your designs for J.Crew reflect that philosophy?
We pay a lot of attention to interior details, like silk-tie-fabric pockets in our sport coats, and contrast under collars. Our new topcoat has an amazing newspaper pocket on the inside that we found on a vintage garment. I'm also very excited about the fit of our new Ludlow suit, which we introduced in the Liquor Store. It has a sixties vibe to it, with details like pick stitching, functioning buttonholes, narrow lapels, and a canvas chest piece. It's a bit more fitted and shorter than our regular suit.

So the Liquor Store's become important to J.Crew's identity?
Absolutely. I think that in the Liquor Store we found a new type of customer. I was in there the other day and saw John Slattery from Mad Men. That's not the type of person who normally shops at J.Crew, but after they go to the Liquor Store, they're looking at shopping with us again at our regular stores as well.

You're opening a new menswear-only store in Paramus, New Jersey. Is it going to have the same feel as the Liquor Store?
Not necessarily. It will take some elements, but the Liquor Store was based around the neighborhood. In Paramus, we're in the mall.

What will be different about it?
We can't replicate the Liquor Store for obvious reasons—it's its own little microcosm. But the store in the mall will definitely have a masculine vibe, an easy environment for a guy to shop in. I think a guy needs to be transported to a different world as soon as he enters a store. He needs to be tempted. A store should feel unexpected, familiar, and slightly nostalgic at the same time.

Couldn't the same be said of J.Crew's menswear?
I think we give our customer easy-to-understand garments in a masculine color palette. We're understated, not overly trendy. You can't see the J.Crew guy from a mile away. Our guy wants to look good, but he doesn't want to feel self-conscious. To me, J.Crew has always been about mixing high and low, like wearing a denim work shirt shirt under a tuxedo jacket. I think it's important to personalize your style—don't try too hard, and don't take yourself too seriously. You need a charcoal suit, a pair of wingtips, and a few good dress shirts. A tie bar is cool.

Is the economic downturn making you reassess your design philosophies?
Not at all. You have to be optimistic and go full steam ahead.

Overall, this was an interesting interview! :) I am not sure if I agree with Frank's comment that men don't appreciate change, but that is just me. ;) I am also surprised by how optimistic he is about the economy- however I do like positive thinking during these times! :)

What are your takes on the article? Disagree or agree with any of the points made? Do you think men "need little steps" when it comes to fashion? ;)